Stadium #4: Highmark Stadium and Bills Mafia Intensity#

A Small City with a Massive Fan Base#

Buffalo has about the same population (~276k) as New Orleans (~362k), so it’s fairly small as far as NFL cities go. But that just means their fan base is more rad. The entire city rallies around the Bills in a way that feels personal and deeply passionate.

I’m a big fan of Josh Allen, and because the Bills have been beaten up so many times and come so close to the Super Bowl but never walked away with the Lombardi Trophy, I root for them. When they’re not playing the Saints, of course.

The weather was slightly overcast but mostly clear, perfect football weather.

We stayed at a Holiday Inn downtown, had a rental car and were ready to explore.

Late Night Arrival: Buffalo After Dark#

Since I flew in late, Gene and I headed downtown around midnight. Even though it was a small section of the city, the night scene was going strong.

We did notice that Gene and I looked like we were wrecking the age curve as most of the people there appeared to be in their 20s. We were definitely bringing up the average.

We found a dive bar and ordered some wings, which were okay, but they did not live up to the expectation and hype of Buffalo wings. A disappointing start, but we’d get another chance.

Anchor Bar: The Original Buffalo Wings Debate#

The next day, we went to Anchor Bar, where they claim to be the home of the original Buffalo chicken wings.

Since I’ve been to Buffalo before, I knew this was a hotly debated topic, so I just decided to keep my opinions to myself and enjoy the food.

We got there early, and there was already a line before they’d even opened. We got to talk to some other Bills and Saints fans who were in town for the game. The wings were great and completely redeemed themselves from the previous night’s bar. These were the real deal.

On the walk back, we ran into a car show with lots of beautiful classic cars on display. My favorite was a converted van in the style of Alice in Wonderland.

Frank Lloyd Wright’s Martin House#

As a fan of architecture (what I wanted to be when I grew up), we stopped by the Martin House by Frank Lloyd Wright. They wanted about $50 for a tour, but I wasn’t that big of a fan, so we just walked around the house for free.

One thing that struck me as funny was how awkward it must be for the neighbors to live next to a Frank Lloyd Wright house. How do you keep up with the Joneses for that?

Parkside Candies and Sponge Candy#

We went to Parkside Candies, an old-school candy store where we were told to get sponge candy (a type of honeycomb toffee).

It did not disappoint. I brought back a bag for myself and the family. But mostly for myself.

Eternal Flame Falls#

We were glad to have Gene’s car, as that let us drive to the Eternal Flame Falls, a natural gas flame that burns behind a small waterfall.

We were glad it wasn’t raining, as it might have been difficult and slippery to get to otherwise. It’s a small natural wonder that’s worth the trip.

Afterward, we walked around the beach of Lake Erie, taking in the water and the surprisingly pleasant weather.

One Foot Cock Bar and Chef’s Restaurant#

We stopped at One Foot Cock Bar, where I tried their maple old-fashioned. It was too sweet for my taste, but I’d like to try their Bourbon Street cocktail next time. They seem to be more cocktail-leaning.

From a recommendation from Gene’s sister, we ate at Chef’s Restaurant. The name was unassuming, the inside looked like something right out of the 1980s, but this was probably one of the best Spaghetti parmesan of my life.

I’m pretty sure the layer of cheese, sweet meat sauce, and copious amounts of butter helped. I got mine topped with a meatball. The couple next to us were just as excited and glowing about the food.

They don’t give you just a napkin, you get a full bib. Because you’re going to make a mess, and you should just lean into it.

We finished the night off by walking our full bellies to the top of the Ascend Hotel for a view of downtown Buffalo, then popping into Streetlight Brasserie, which gave a strong “seen and be seen” vibe.

The Flight Timing Problem#

When I booked my tickets, the last flight back to Dallas was at 5 PM. I thought this would be enough time; however, I didn’t take into account that the game started at 1 PM on the East Coast. So I knew I’d have to leave the game early, but I didn’t realize that until a week before flying out.

Two items on my bucket list for this trip were to see Pinto Ron and watch someone destroy a table. I was determined to make at least one happen.

Game Day: Bills Mafia in Full Force#

Thankfully, we’d scouted the location earlier and strategized where to park so we’d be able to leave with minimal traffic problems. Since my flight was at 5 PM, we planned to leave the stadium at 3:30 PM. Thankfully, the airport was nearby (about 20 minutes).

Buffalo fans have, so far, been the most intense we’ve run into.

I was wearing my Brees jersey and a black and gold kilt. There were a few other black and gold fans around, but it was mostly a sea of blue. And some confused…

We barely got 100 feet in before someone invited me to do a ski shot with them. I knew this was going to be great.

Highmark Stadium: Old-School Football#

This is the final and 52nd year of Highmark Stadium one of the very few old-school stadiums still around. It felt like a high school stadium with the grandstands and aluminum bleachers, but much larger.

The new stadium, which is right next door, will be ready for the next football season. So I guess we have to come back to Buffalo again.

The Game: A Valiant Effort#

I knew we weren’t going to win this game, which kind of sucks because we’d won every other game we’d attended. But the Bills were at the top of their division, and the Saints were at the bottom of the NFL.

However, I was impressed at how much of a fight we were able to give. There was one touchdown in the 4th quarter that was overturned, and if it wasn’t, we would have led the game at some point. Very impressive.

When we were trailing by only one point, it was exactly when I needed to leave to make my flight. For a brief second, I debated staying, but that would have complicated logistics all too much.

Instead, we ran from one tunnel to the next, in the direction of our car, watching the Saints get closer to the endzone, almost scoring and taking the lead. Sadly, what looked like a touchdown was later overturned and we had to settle for a field goal. This “ball chasing” wasn’t sustainable as the guards didn’t want us hanging around for long, but helped us feel super close to the game and that we were willing them into the end zone.

After the Game: The Undefeated Streak Ends (Sort Of)#

On the walk back to Gene’s car, I got the updates on my phone, and the Saints pretty much fell apart after we left.

So I think maybe we’re good luck.

I had to leave the game early to catch my flight, but so far, we’ve never seen our teams lose a game. Maybe if this continues, we might get sponsored. :)

Due to our early scouting and carefully planned parking and exit, I was able to get to the airport with lots of time. My sea of blue started coming in from all the other out-of-town fans heading home.

Funny enough, one of the other teams in my fantasy football league is called “Allen Allen Allen Allen” (not related to Josh). So, I got this perfectly timed photo with all four of them.

What We Learned#

Stadium #4 taught us:

Bills Mafia is real. The intensity, the creativity, the passion. It’s everything you’ve heard and more.

Don’t take trash talk personally. Once you respond with humor and respect, even the most intense fans become friendly.

Small cities, big fanbases. Buffalo and New Orleans are similar in size, and both have fans who live and breathe their teams.

Plan your exit strategy. Especially when you have a flight to catch.

We’re not alone. Other people are doing this crazy stadium tour too, and that’s awesome.

Old-school stadiums are special. Highmark Stadium felt like real football. No frills, just passion and aluminum bleachers.

Sponge candy is delicious. Buffalo knows what they’re doing.

The Journey Continues#

Four stadiums down. Twenty-six to go.

Buffalo gave us intensity, innovation, and a glimpse of what football culture looks like when an entire city is all-in. We’ll be back when the new stadium opens, but we’re glad we got to experience the old one in its final season.

Gene and I are still undefeated when we stay for the whole game. Let’s see how long that lasts.

Stadiums Visited: 4/30
Pinto Ron Sightings: 1
Tables Destroyed: 0 (next time)
Good Luck Streak: Intact. Kinda, but not really. Next Stop: TBD

Follow along as Gene and I continue our journey across America, one stadium at a time.